Understanding image sharpness part 8:
Grain and sharpness in scans and enlarger prints
by Norman Koren

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In this page we compare grain and sharpness for three scanners with a well-crafted enlarger print, and we look at grain aliasing and software solutions.
| Green is for geeks. Do you get excited by an elegant equation? Were you passionate about your college math classes? Then you're probably a math geek-- a member of a maligned and misunderstood but highly elite fellowship. The text in green is for you. If you're normal or mathematically challenged, you may skip these sections. You'll never know what you missed. |
Faster films tend to have larger grain-- grain vs. speed is a classic tradeoff. Increasing development time, which increases image contrast, also tends to increase grain size. The choice of developer affects the grain structure-- mostly the RMS density variation. Black & White developers span a spectrum from fine grain developers such as Microdol-X, which softens both grain and image, to ultra-sharp developers such as Rodinal, that have pinprick-fine grain and maximum image sharpness. Sloppy development-- poor temperature control or depleted chemicals-- makes grain uglier: density variation worsens and grains can clump.
Some people prefer sharp grain and choose developers like Rodinal to emphasize it, but most people would be happy to be rid of it. At best they regard it as a necessary evil. Grain tends to be most objectionable in smooth areas like skies.
I wrote this page because I received one complaint too many about grain in the CanoScan FS4000US 4000 dpi scanner. The gist of the complaints was that scanned images looked significantly grainier than camera shop prints; scanner noise and grain aliasing were the suspects. The two most serious complaints involved Kodak Gold 200 film. I decided to investigate by comparing a sharp print with scans from my three scanners: the 4000 dpi CanoScan FS4000US, the 2400 dpi Epson 2450 (to be replaced with the 3200 dpi model 3200), and the 2400 dpi Hewlett-Packard PhotoSmart S20 (recently discontinued). I used a Black & White print because I couldn't find a suitably sharp color print of my own making) I also needed a fairly grainy image to observe grain aliasing, which is rather elusive.
The
image I've chosen for the comparison is Swan Window, Phoenixville, Pennsylvania,
1972, part of a series of shop windows that express old-fashioned individuality--
that show no trace of the franchise-driven uniformity that blights our
cities and suburbs. It isn't earth-shaking, but it is well suited for the
comparison because it's extremely sharp, has a sharp but fine grain structure,
and has smooth areas where grain is plainly visible.
It was taken with a Leica M2 with a 1958 vintage chrome-barreled 35mm Summicron lens, at or near its optimum aperture of f/8. A superb lens, even by today's standards. The film was Ilford FP-4, developed in Edwal FG7 diluted 1:15 in a 9% sodium sulfite solution. I used that combination of film and developer because it was extremely sharp, had moderate grain and a nice tonal scale. The grain is tight but has rather high amplitude (density variation) compared to typical color images.
The above image was scanned at 4000 dpi in 16-bit B&W on the Canon FS4000US, boosted in contrast using Picture Window's Brightness Curve transformation (below, right), resized to 400 pixels wide, then saved as a moderately high quality JPEG. The original scan settings were optimized to capture detail over as wide a tonal range as possible. Contrast was boosted to approximately match the print. I didn't take the trouble to match the print exactly because it was evidently dodged (lightened) in the window area and burned (darkened) at the top and bottom; it would have been too time-consuming to do this with the all the scans (no problem doing this for a fine print). The print is pretty snappy-- quite a lot of the shadow detail had to be sacrificed. For reference, a portion of the image with original tones (as scanned) and the Brightness Curve transformation are shown below.
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| The print was made on a Leitz Focomat 1c enlarger with a 50mm f/2.8
El Nikkor enlarging lens stopped down to f/8 (optimum aperture). Every
effort was taken to make it as sharp as possible. The Focomat has anti-Newton
ring glass above the film (one side only) to keep it from shifting during
the exposure. A well-calibrated Thomas Scoponet (aerial image) focus magnifier
was used to verify the image sharpness, and the enlarger had been adjusted
so the film carrier, lens, and easel planes were precisely aligned. I was
a fanatic printer-- absolutely hardcore-- a trait that hasn't changed.
I loved it, and still do, when experienced photographers thought I was
using medium format.
The full frame 24x36mm negative was printed 7.6x11.4 inches (194x291 mm; 8.08x magnification) on 11x14 inch Agfa Portriga Rapid glossy paper, selenium toned. The central portion of the print, shown on the right (reduced), was scanned in Black & White at 600 dpi on the Epson 2450 with Unsharp Mask. At 600 dpi, the image is not affected by scanner limitations. At a print magnification of 8.08x, this is equivalent to 4848 dpi on the negative. I resized it to the equivalent of 4000 dpi for comparison with the CanoScan FS4000US, then I sharpened it so the grain and sharpness appear identical to the print viewed through a 10x loupe. |
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| The Epson 2450 flatbed scanner scans at the same 2400 dpi "resolution"
(actually, scanning density) as the HP S20, but its image has less detail
than the S20 and larger grain than any of the other scans. I was able to
determine that the 2450 is equivalent to about a 1600 dpi scanner with
the following procedure.
I resized the sharp Canon FS4000US scan (upper right in the comparison, above) to the equivalent of 1600 dpi, resized it again to 2400 dpi, then sharpened it so it appears similar to the original Epson 2450 scan. 1600 dpi was closest to the original scan. I couldn't obtain as much detail at 1200 dpi, and there was notably more detail at 2000 dpi. I must add that the 2450's large apparent grain is not the result of grain aliasing. It is the result of the 2450's low sharpness, which softens both the image and grain, and hence emphasizes low spatial frequencies. |
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Grain aliasing appears when two conditions are met.
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Grain aliasing is observable in the 300 dpi scan because the Epson apparently scans every 8th position, without anti-aliasing. This reduces the Nyquist frequency by a factor of 8, but doesn't affect the sensor response; hence there is huge response above Nyquist. Grain aliasing was less obvious in 600 and 1200 dpi scans.
Observations on grain aliasing-- I had a difficult time observing it with any of my scanners, even at 1/4 the maximum optical scan density. The evidence that the CanoScan FS4000US has no grain aliasing is the similar grain structures in scan and the enlarger print. The HP S20 and Epson 2450 both have somewhat larger, softer grain structures, not caused by grain aliasing. It is caused by the response of these scanners, which softens both the grain and the image, emphasizing lower spatial frequencies.
If you haven't worked with fine darkroom equipment or haven't purchased well-made custom prints, you may not realize how grainy film can be (negative film is grainier than slide film). Grain aliasing and scanner noise are often blamed for grainy appearance, when, in fact, straight unaliased film grain is the cause.
Nevertheless, grain aliasing is a real effect worth watching for. I
believe Pete saw
the real thing: if his 2700 dpi Acer
Scanwit 2720 scanner had an optical system as good as the 4000 dpi
CanoScan
FS4000US, it would have sufficient response above the Nyquist frequency
(1350 lp/ inch = 53 lp/mm) to make it susceptible to grain aliasing. Dave
Miller of Beckenham, Kent, England, lends support to this theory. Images
scanned from color negatives on his 2700 dpi Acer, especially ASA 200,
are unacceptably grainy.
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Now the good news. You can reduce grain in software.
| The first line of defense is the Blur function found in most image
editors. Blur is often combined with a threshold to prevent it from blurring
edges. Here is the result of applying Picture Window Pro's Blur transformation
to the CanoScan FS4000US 4000 dpi scan (above,
right side). Method: was set to
Blur
More and Threshold: was set
to 29.8%. Threshold should be set as
low as possible to reduce grain while maintaining sharp edges. The entire
image is soft when Threshold: is set
to 100%.
Remember, this image is enlarged about 50x on your monitor screen. Very little grain will be visible in a 13x19 inch print (about 13x magnification). |
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I owe a debt of gratitude to Greg Brakefield (gbrakefield at cfl dot rr dot com, one of the Kodak Gold 200 grain sufferers) for getting me to look more closely at grain reduction software. In October he wrote me complaining about noise in his CanoScan FS4000US scanner. It turned out to be film grain: The structure was identical in scans made with FilmGet (Canon's software) and VueScan. As soon as he realized that returning his scanner wouldn't help, he started testing software. At first he tried demo versions of several Photoshop plug-ins: Grain Surgery ($199), Quantum Mechanic Pro ($199) and Noise Reduction Pro ($99). His favorite was Noise Reduction Pro.
Then he discovered a standalaone program called Neat
Image. (Nicole
Vincent told me about it at the same time.) An amazing program. It
creates a noise profile by analyzing grain in untextured areas of the image,
then uses the profile to remove grain. You can control the degree of grain
removal and sharpening. Profiles can be saved for use with other images
made with same film/scanner combination-- not all images have untextured
areas suitable for profiling. The downside: it runs very slowly and there's
a learning curve. You may want to start a run before a meal or a coffee
break (tea on the other side of the pond). A dual-processor machine makes
it easier to perform other work during a run.
You can download a demo version-- very capable, but saves only in JPEG
format (not TIFF or BMP), by clicking here.
The basic instructions for getting started are here.
I'll eventually have more to say, but for now, here are Greg's tips:
After the usual Levels and Color adjustments, I ran the corrected image through Neat Image with outstanding results. The following procedure works well with FS4000US scanned images .If the results in Neat Image's website are any indication, it's well worth the effort. (They've done quite a job on the grainy sail from the middle of Pete Andrews' page.) Here is the result of running Neat Image on an image taken with Kodak Gold 200 film and scanned at 4000 dpi on the CanoScan FS4000US. the crop is magnified 1:1 (1 screen pixel per image pixel). The settings are similar to Greg's. I reduced the Noise reduction amounts somewhat from the defaults: Y = 50% and Cr = Cb = 80%, and I increased the sharpening: 110% for High (spatial frequencies) and 40% for Mid. Impressive results!The Key to determining the amounts in step (4) is experimentation. Use your mouse to select an area in the image to analyze, then use the various settings described above. Each time you make a change to a slider, Neat Image will show the changes in the box.
- Under the "Device noise profile" Tab, pick a detail-free area, and run the "Rough noise analyzer" to analyze it. Then pick several other similar textureless areas and use the "Fine tune analyzer".
- Under the "Noise filter settings" tab, I usually leave the "Noise levels" section alone.
- Under the "Noise reduction amounts" section, I adjust the "Mid" and "Low" sliders in the to between 90% - 95% (I try keep them equal). I make no adjustment to the "High" slider.
- This step is CRITICAL to ensure the images is not over-Filtered to the point that they have a "plastic" look. In the same section (Noise reduction amounts), adjust the "Y" slider to between 40% and 70% (I usually find that 45-60 is best). NOTE: This appears to be the main control for determining how much overall filtration is applied. In addition, adjust the "Cr" and "Cb" sliders (keep them equal) to read 30% HIGHER than the "Y" slider.
- Finally, in the "Sharpening settings" section, I've been leaving "Y" checked, adjusting the "High" slider to 60-70%, and adjusting the "Mid" and "Low" sliders to 10 - 20%.
These settings are not etched in stone; they are merely the ones that worked well with my images. If you find better settings, please let me (Greg) know. I'd be happy to send you examples if you like.
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Step 1: Blur |
Step 2: Speck removal |
Step 3: Sharpen |
Another Neat Image example--
Dr. P. K. Roy of Durgapur, West Bengal, India sent me this image of his
late mother, himself (lower left), and his little brother, taken around
1950. It was scanned from a print made on rough textured paper. I cropped
it to save bandwidth. I trained Neat Image on a portion of the background
on the upper left, not shown in the crop. It did a near miraculous job
of reducing the texture while maintaining important detail.
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Neat Image is an remarkable program for enhancing image quality; one of the most amazing pieces of software I've come across. I added it to my arsenal-- I purchased the professional version-- after several of my friends jumped on the bandwagon.
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| Images
and text copyright © 2000-2013 by Norman
Koren. Norman Koren lives in Boulder, Colorado, founded Imatest LLC in 2004, previously worked on magnetic recording technology. He has been involved with photography since 1964. |
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